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Whenever curating a ranking of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee familiar award-winning names. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu located in a distant part of north London.

An Shocking Recognition

This compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent gastronomic guide. This accolade has left the family completely surprised.

“I am utterly shocked,” states a family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant achieving such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

However, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant certainly delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

The wrap is typically consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Ethos of Hospitality

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a life outside work but her friends would visit to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate outside its own doors. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater meaning of this gastronomic honour.